Help

Scan a roomiPhone · iPad

Scan a room uses your device's LiDAR camera to measure the walls as you walk the room, and needs camera access to do it. It needs a device with a LiDAR sensor: on a device without one, tapping it says so rather than opening a scanner that cannot work, and the two rows below it work on every device.

MacA Mac has no LiDAR sensor, so there is no scanner in the Mac app at all — everything else on this page is there. Scan on the phone or iPad, then open the plan on the Mac (see Opening a plan from somewhere else) and do the editing, measuring and exporting on the bigger screen.

A scan is a first draft, not a verdict. Every wall it measures can be moved, every opening repositioned, and the room's height adjusted, once you're in the 3D view — see The 3D view and Editing what you've added.

Sketch a floorplan

Sketch a floorplan works on every device, LiDAR or not: tap out the corners and the walls stand up on their own.

Tap once to place the first corner, then tap again to set the far end — that draws your first wall. Keep tapping to add the next one, and the next: each tap adds another wall to the chain. Tap a corner you've already placed to close the loop and finish the room.

One finger is reserved for placing corners, so panning and zooming both use two fingers — drag with two fingers to slide the page, or pinch to zoom, at any point while you're drawing. If a pan or a zoom carries the drawing off-screen, the Fit button brings the whole thing back into view; it always works, even on a blank canvas.

The Sketch Settings button on the canvas sets the snap spacing, the major grid band, and the thickness the walls will be given when the drawing becomes a room.

It also holds Import a reference image… — a photo of a paper plan, a floor plan PDF from an agent, a scan of a hand sketch. The picture drops in underneath your drawing at a rough guessed size, and you set its scale and line it up while you trace. It is available the whole time you are sketching, not only at the start, and a new file replaces the one that's there. See Tracing a reference image for all of its settings.

The sample room

Overplan ships with a sample room — a real, finished, furnished plan — and copies it into your library the first time you open the app, so there is something to orbit, measure and share before you have scanned anything. It is an ordinary plan from that moment on: it opens, edits, renames, exports and deletes like any other.

If you delete it or edit it beyond recognition, Restore Sample Room in the ••• menu on the Plans screen brings the original back. When a plan called Sample Room is still in your library, it asks first — Replace discards your changes to it, Keep Both adds a fresh copy alongside what you have.

Getting around

MacThe gestures below are pointer moves instead: drag to orbit, scroll to zoom, and middle-drag or hold space and drag to pan. The full list is in Keyboard and pointer.

Once a room exists — scanned, sketched or traced — it opens in the 3D view, where every edit in this help file happens. Looking around it uses one finger; changing what you're looking at uses two.

Drag with one finger to orbit around the room. Drag with two fingers to slide the room across the screen instead — the same two fingers can pinch to zoom at the same time, so panning and zooming blend into one motion, the way it works in Maps.

Lost your place after a wide orbit or an over-eager zoom? Double-tap with two fingers and the view snaps back — recentred and re-fit to the room, keeping the angle you were looking from.

Adding a wall, door or window

Add opens a small palette with three choices: Wall, Door, Window.

Door or Window — tap the one you want, then tap the wall where it goes. It appears already placed and already selected, at whatever size you used last, ready to move or resize right away. Tapping a spot the opening cannot fit keeps it armed and shows why, so your very next tap is the retry.

Wall — a new interior wall has to start from an existing one, so tapping Wall first asks you to tap the wall it should attach to. From there, drag out its length and direction: it snaps to existing corners, to running perpendicular, and to 45° steps, with a confirmation showing the length before it commits.

Editing what you've added

Tap a wall, a door, a window, or the floor or ceiling, to select it. Tap empty space, or tap the same thing again, to deselect it. Only one thing is selected at a time.

• A selected wall moves when you drag it. It cannot be resized directly — a wall's length follows from the corners at each end, which is what Sketch mode is for.
• A selected door or window slides along its wall when you drag its middle, and resizes when you drag one of its edges.
• The selected floor or ceiling changes the room's height when you drag it.

Whatever is selected shows its own card with the actions that apply to it — including Delete; see Deleting.

The move grip on a wall

Select a wall and an amber dot with a double-headed arrow appears at its middle. It is a sign, not a control you have to use: dragging anywhere on a selected wall has always moved it, and the grip is there so you can see that before you try. The arrow points along the axis the wall actually travels, which is the same axis your drag is measured on.

A wall the plan cannot move — one whose corners are pinned by the walls around it — gets no grip. Dragging it still tells you why rather than doing nothing.

Sketch mode

Sketch (in the dock) is the fast way to fix a room's shape: it opens the room's own corners on a flat 2D canvas — the very same canvas Sketch a floorplan draws a new plan on, with the same settings and the same Import a reference image… control. There is one sketch mode; the only difference is whether it starts blank or starts with your room in it.

• Tap a corner, then tap it again to drag it into place.
• Tap a wall, then tap it again to slide it — or to delete it. A corner itself can't be deleted directly; delete the walls that meet at it instead.
• Draw a brand-new wall off a selected corner or wall, or straight onto empty ground, the same way you would in a fresh sketch.

The first press only highlights, deliberately — it is what stops a stray finger dragging your room out of shape. Done writes your changes back onto this same room. Cancel only asks first if something has actually changed since you opened it.

A reference image brought in here is a reference for this sitting: it is never part of what you draw, and it is not saved with the plan.

Deleting

A wall or an opening: select it, then use Delete on its own card. A single undo is offered immediately afterwards, right on screen.

A whole plan: its menu in Plans, then Delete. This one is confirmed before it happens, because there is no undo for an entire plan the way there is for one wall.

From the library

Add offers furniture alongside Wall, Door and Window. The library is grouped the way a home is rather than the way a catalogue is — seating, beds, worktops, storage, gym equipment — so you look where the thing lives.

Pick a piece and it drops into the room. Drag it to position it; the room's snap grid applies, so it lines up with walls and with other furniture without fighting you.

MacThe library lives in the sidebar as a grid, and Add in the menu bar reaches the same catalogue.

Sizing, turning and colouring

Select a piece and its card offers everything about it in one place:

• Width, depth and height as tiles you can nudge or type into.
• Turn rotates it; Flip mirrors it, for a chair or a sofa that is handed.
• Height offset lifts it off the floor — a wall cupboard, a shelf, a television on a bracket.
• Colour, from the same row of accents the rooms use, with no colour first so a piece can stay plain clay.
• Select All takes every piece in the plan, for recolouring in one go.

MacWhile you drag a piece, hold ⇧ to move it vertically instead of along the floor, and ⌥ to leave a duplicate behind.

Bringing your own model

You are not limited to the library. Overplan imports USDZ, GLB and OBJ, so a model you bought, downloaded or made yourself can go straight into the room.

MacDrop the file onto the 3D view. An import panel opens and tells you what it found — the model's real size, whether it carries a baked shading texture, and anything it had to correct. Sit on floor drops it onto the floor plane; otherwise its own coordinates are kept.

The commonest surprise is a model that arrives a hundred times too big or too small, because 3D files disagree about what one unit means. The panel shows the size it measured, so you can see that before you place it. If your own models look flat next to the library's, see Your own models look flat next to ours.

Taking a measurement

Measure (in the dock) replaces the dock with measure mode's own controls. Tap two points and Overplan snaps each one to the nearest real feature — a corner, an edge, a wall face — and names what it snapped to, so a dimension is never taken from a point that does not actually exist on the room.

Wall to wall specifically measures between the clear, finished faces of two walls — the number a tape would give you, not a centre-line distance. Two walls that have been dragged out of parallel have no single clear width, so that pair is refused with a sentence rather than given a number that would not mean anything.

Every measurement attaches to the room, not to the screen, so it follows your edits: move a wall and the numbers change with it.

The Wall, Edge and Corner filters

Measure mode's controls are three switches and a way out: Wall · Edge · Corner · Back. Each switch decides whether the aim is allowed to land on that kind of feature at all. They light up when they are on, so what you are aiming at is readable at a glance instead of being something you find out by tapping.

• Wall — flat faces. Turn Edge and Corner off and every tap lands on a face, which is what you want when you are dimensioning wall to wall across a room full of corners.
• Edge — the lines where two surfaces meet.
• Corner — single points. The most precise of the three, and the one that otherwise wins whenever your finger is near one.

At least one has to stay on: with all three off, no tap could resolve anything. Turning off the last one gives a light tick and declines, rather than leaving you in a mode that ignores you. Your choice is remembered between plans and between launches, because "I am dimensioning wall to wall today" is a fact about how you are working, not about one room.

Back leaves measure mode. So does a tap on clear ground when you have nothing half-measured.

The Measurements list

Measurements — the chip beside the dock while measure mode is on — lists every measurement in the room: what each one is between, what it currently reads, and a pencil to caption it or a bin to delete it.

It exists because the room itself cannot show you all of them: a measurement on the far side of the plan, or one whose ends have orbited out of sight, has nothing on screen at all. The list is also where a refused pair explains itself.

The letters down the left match the register on the PDF drawing, in the same order, and the captions you type here are the captions that print on it.

Bringing in a photo or a PDF

Import a reference image…, the first row in Sketch Settings on the sketch canvas, opens the file picker for a PNG, JPEG or HEIC photo or a PDF — a photo of a paper plan taken on your iPhone is a HEIC, and works. For a PDF, the first page is used; there is no page picker. It is there in both ways into sketching — a new plan, or the plan already on screen — and it is there for the whole session, so you can bring a picture in at any point or swap it for a different one. There is only ever one reference; a new file replaces it, and its scale, rotation and position start again from a guess.

There is no calibration screen in the way. The image lands on the sketch canvas straight away, at a guess of about 7 m along its longer side, and you correct that guess afterwards while you can actually see it against the grid. Everything you draw is your own drawing — the image underneath is a reference and never becomes part of the plan.

An imported image has no geometry of its own, so your corners snap to the grid over it, not to lines in the picture. That is the difference between tracing an image and tracing a scan, where there are real corners to land on.

Image scale

Open Sketch Settings on the canvas and Image scale is the first control. It is one number: how long the image's longer side is in the real world. Nudge it in 10 cm steps with the stepper, or tap the number itself to type one.

The way to set it is to find something in the picture whose length you know — a door, a run of wall, a dimension printed on the plan — and adjust until that thing reads about right against the grid. A room is usually 5–10 m across, which is where the opening guess comes from.

Moving it and pinning it

Position on the grid… hands the canvas over to moving the image. The toolbar is replaced by an accent-coloured bar reading Moving the image, the image gets a dashed outline, and it is forced visible — so there is no doubt about which layer your finger has hold of. Two fingers still pan and zoom throughout.

Dragging gets it roughly right, landing on the same snap grid your drawing uses. Pin a Point makes it exact, in two taps: tap something on the image you can recognise — a corner of the traced plan — then tap where that point belongs on the grid, and it lands exactly there.

Back on the panel, Move across and Move up are the same position as two typed numbers, stepping by your current snap spacing — for when you already know the template is 40 cm too far east. They read as an offset because a freshly imported image starts centred on the plan's origin. Done leaves position mode.

Rotate, opacity and mirror

Rotate turns the image, one degree a tap or a typed number, anywhere in −180° to 180° — for squaring a photographed plan up against the drawing grid.

Image underlay is the opacity slider: how faintly the reference shows through. At 0% it is hidden, and hidden means it also stops being snapped to, which is worth knowing before you slide it down to get a clearer look at your own lines.

Mirror image flips it left to right, for a plan that was photographed or exported the wrong way round.

Redrawing a plan you already have

Sometimes a scan is too messy to be worth correcting and you would rather draw a clean plan from scratch with the old one visible underneath. There is no separate mode for that: export the plan you have as a to-scale PDF, start Sketch a floorplan, and bring that PDF in as the reference image. The original plan is left completely untouched, because you are drawing a new one.

Use Sketch in the dock instead whenever the plan is close enough to correct — that edits the room you already have and keeps every opening, thickness and measurement on it.

Plans, and duplicating one

Plans is where every scan, sketch and trace you've made lives, one card each. Tap a card to open it. The ••• on a card is its own menu, ordered by consequence — safest first, destructive last: Open .overplan from Files, Rename, Duplicate, Share, View in AR, then Restore, then Delete.

Duplicate copies a plan whole, including the original scan or drawing it started from — so you can take a room in two different directions and still be able to restore either copy back to the same starting point on its own. Duplicating is never confirmed, because it only ever adds a plan; the copy is one menu away from being deleted again if you change your mind.

The .overplan file

.overplan is Overplan's own document format, and it is the plan itself rather than a picture of one. It carries the room, the original scan or drawing, your edits, your openings, your furniture and your measurements — so it opens back up on another device fully editable, exactly as you left it. It is also what to keep as a backup. Every other export is a rendering: a PDF or a 3D model can be looked at and printed and measured, but it cannot be re-opened here and carried on with.

One plan is one file. Nothing about it needs an account, a login or a server.

Where your plans are kept

iPhone · iPadOverplan keeps its plans where you can see them: open the Files app and look under On My iPhone (or On My iPad) → Overplan. Every plan is one .overplan file with its own icon, and you can copy, move, rename, organise into folders, AirDrop or back them up from there like any other document.

MacThe Mac app does not plant a folder in your Documents — that folder is yours. Its library keeps its own copies out of the way in Application Support, and the way to have a plan somewhere you choose is to use Export and pick Project package (.overplan). A plan saved anywhere on your disk or in iCloud Drive opens straight into its own window, so a folder of your own works exactly as well as the library does.

Plans stay on your device. Overplan has no account, no cloud and no analytics; nothing leaves the device unless you share it. If you want a plan in iCloud Drive or on a computer, copy it there yourself — that is a decision you make, not a default.

Opening a plan from somewhere else

A .overplan from another device — AirDropped, downloaded, sitting in iCloud Drive or on a shared drive — opens in two ways:

• From Overplan: ••• on any card in Plans → Open .overplan from Files…, then pick the file. The picker greys out anything that is not a plan.
• From outside: tap or share the file — in Files, Mail, Messages, or straight off an AirDrop — and choose Overplan. It is imported as a plan of your own and appears as a new card.

MacUse File ▸ Open Plan…, double-click a .overplan in the Finder, drop it on the Dock icon, or pick it from File ▸ Open Recent — all four do the same thing, and none of them copies anything. The file you opened is the file you are editing, wherever you keep it, so there is never a second stale twin of a plan you thought you had changed. If the same plan arrives a second time from a different file, Overplan says so and offers to Open as a Copy rather than quietly picking one.

If a file turns out not to be a readable plan, Overplan says which of the three things went wrong — not a plan at all, written by a newer version of Overplan than this one, or incomplete — because the three need different actions from you.

Restoring the original

Every plan keeps its starting point untouched, separately from whatever you've edited since — whichever way it began. The button is named for what it actually goes back to: Restore Original Scan for a room that started as a scan, or Restore Drawn Outline for one that started as a sketch or a trace.

Either one discards every edit made since — walls moved, openings added or removed, measurements taken — keeping only what was originally measured or drawn. It asks for confirmation first, because there is no further undo once you confirm. Reach it from a plan's menu in Plans, or from Room inside the editor itself.

A room saved by an older version of Overplan, before this kept a separate original, shows why the button is unavailable rather than just greying it out with no explanation.

The Share screen

Share — the share button in the editor's toolbar, or Share… from a card's ••• menu in Plans — is one screen with every way out of Overplan on it, in four groups: View in AR, then Overplan, 2D PDF and 3D model.

Nothing leaves your device until you pick one and choose a destination.

MacThe same list is in two places: Share in the toolbar hands the file to the system share sheet, and Export beside it saves it where you choose. Both offer the identical set of formats, and the library screen's ••• menu has them too.

View in AR has a section of its own — see Augmented reality, including what to send someone who has never heard of Overplan.

View in AR — pinch to shrink it

View in AR is the first row, on its own, because it is not an export: it opens your room in the room you are standing in, and hands over no file at all. Tap it, then tap AR in the viewer.

It opens at real size. A full-size building appears around you, so if you are indoors the first thing you see is likely to be a wall in your face, with nothing on screen saying it can be changed. Pinch to shrink it until it is a model on the table in front of you. You can also drag it to reposition it and twist to rotate it. This surprises everybody once; it is the viewer working as intended, not a fault.

The first tap takes a moment while the model is prepared. Sharing the same room as USDZ afterwards is instant, because it is the same file.

On a device that cannot place a model in the room around it, the row reads View in 3D instead and says so — you still get the model, just without the AR tab.

Overplan — Project package

Project package (.overplan) shares the complete, editable project — for another device, a desktop, or a backup. It is the one option that hands over the plan rather than a picture of it: whoever receives it can open it in Overplan and keep working.

It shares a copy, and any edit still in flight is written first, so what goes out is always what you are looking at. The row is unavailable for a room that has never been saved, because there is no file yet — save it first.

2D PDF — three documents

• Drawing — a printable, to-scale 2D floor plan with dimensions. Pick a paper size and the button shows the scale it prints at; a size too small for the room stays on screen marked "won't fit" rather than disappearing, because that is itself useful information about the room. Your captioned measurements print in its register.
• True scale (1:1) — the plan drawing at real size, for CAD use. No frame, no title block, no register, no dimensions: the geometry, on a page the size of the drawing itself. A CAD or vector tool opening it gets real paths at real dimensions.
• Presentation — a rendered overhead view, for showing the result. Not to scale. It looks like a member of the same family as the Drawing and means the opposite thing: the Drawing is meant to be measured, this one must never be.

Both of the first two are previewed before they are shared, so you can see the page before anyone else does.

3D model — USDZ, GLB, OBJ

• USDZ — Apple's AR/Quick Look format. Best for previewing on iPhone, iPad or Mac and sharing with Apple apps. Send one to somebody and they can walk your plan at full size with nothing to install.
• GLB — glTF binary. Widely supported by web and game tools.
• OBJ — universal text format. Opens in nearly every 3D tool. It is the oldest and plainest of the three: it comes with a companion .mtl file for the colours (share both together), and unlike USDZ and GLB it carries no baked shading, so it arrives flatter and is lit entirely by whatever you open it in.

All three include the furniture you've placed when Furniture visible is on in the view settings, and leave it out when it is off — the model matches what you are looking at.

Getting a 3D file onto a computer

For Blender, or any desktop 3D tool, the route is the ordinary one — the file is a normal file, so use whatever you already use to move files:

• AirDrop to a Mac. Pick the format, then AirDrop from the share sheet; it lands in Downloads.
• Save to Files — into iCloud Drive, or into any storage provider you have in Files — then open it on the computer from the same place. This works for Windows too, via iCloud for Windows or any provider you both can see.
• Mail it to yourself, which is often the shortest path for one file.

Blender imports all three formats. USDZ and GLB carry the baked shading and their colours in one file; OBJ needs its .mtl companion kept alongside it. If a model imports looking oddly tiny or enormous, check the import scale in the tool rather than re-exporting — the file states its own units.

To carry on editing the plan rather than the mesh, send the .overplan instead. A 3D model is a one-way trip out of Overplan.

Seeing the room at any sizeiPhone · iPad

View in AR sits beside Share. It hands the finished room to the system's own AR viewer — Quick Look — which puts it on a real surface through the camera. Point at a desk or the floor, and the room is there: walls, doors, furniture and the shading baked into them.

A whole flat sitting on a kitchen table is the usual way people look at it; scaled up on the floor is the other. It opens at real size, so the shrinking is the first thing to do — the gestures for it, and why the first view is often a wall in your face, are in View in AR — pinch to shrink it.

It needs camera access, and the first time you open it the system asks. AR is Quick Look's, not Overplan's, so the controls are Apple's and behave the same way they do everywhere else on the device.

MacThere is no View in AR button here, and no greyed-out one pretending there could be: a Mac has no pass-through camera, so there is no room in front of you to stand the model in. Export USDZ instead — double-clicking that file opens the room in Quick Look as a 3D object you can spin, which is the right way to check an export — and send the same file to an iPhone or iPad for the room-on-your-table version.

Sending AR to someone else

Whoever you send it to does not need Overplan, or any app at all. Export USDZ and send the file however you like — Messages, Mail, AirDrop, a link. On any current iPhone or iPad, tapping it opens the room in AR straight from the message. On a Mac it opens in Quick Look. Nothing to install, no account, no sign-up.

That makes USDZ the format to reach for when the point is showing — a client, a landlord, a partner who cannot read a floor plan. Send a PDF when the point is building.

The file carries its own shading, so it looks the same on their device as it does on yours.

Rescuing a bad scan by tracing it

Some rooms scan badly — mirrors, glass, dark walls, deep alcoves, clutter against the walls. When a scan comes out so tangled that fixing it wall by wall would take longer than starting again, do not start again. Trace it.

You keep everything the scan got right — the overall shape, where the openings roughly are — and none of what it got wrong. It is usually faster than correcting a bad scan, and the result is a plan drawn on straight lines and right angles rather than one apologising for a sensor.

Draw a big plan in sections

A whole apartment in one sketch session is harder than it needs to be: more walls on screen than you can aim at, and one mistake to undo through.

Done and back in costs a couple of seconds and gives you a checkpoint every time. It also keeps each session's snapping easy, because there is less on screen competing for the same fingertip.

Your own models look flat next to ours

The furniture in Overplan's library carries a baked ambient-occlusion map — a texture holding the soft darkening where surfaces meet, under a seat, inside a shelf. That is most of why it sits in the room rather than floating in it.

A model you downloaded or exported yourself usually has no such map, so it renders evenly lit and reads as flat. Nothing is broken; there is simply no contact shading to draw.

It is worth doing for anything you will export or show in AR, because the AR viewer does no ambient occlusion of its own — whatever shading the file carries is all the shading there will be.

Measure one wall by hand

Whether you scanned or traced, one real measurement anchors everything. Tape-measure a single long wall, then check it in Overplan and correct it if it disagrees. Every other dimension is relative to the same geometry, so fixing the longest wall fixes the worst of the error everywhere.

Do it before you place furniture, not after.

If snapping is fiddly, zoom in

Snapping works to a fixed distance on the glass — about a fingertip — never to a distance in the room. That is deliberate: the reach of your finger does not change when you zoom, so a gesture you learn at one zoom keeps working at every other.

The useful consequence is that zooming in spreads the features apart under your finger. A corner and an edge that were fighting over the same fingertip at whole-room framing are centimetres apart when you are close, and the tap goes exactly where you meant. When a snap keeps grabbing the wrong thing, or a corner will not go quite where you want it, zoom closer first — it works better than aiming harder.

Tap the ground to back out

Whenever you are somewhere you did not mean to be — something selected, a door armed, a palette open, measure mode running — tap the ground, clearly outside the building's footprint. It does exactly what that level's own Back, Cancel or Done button does.

One tap goes back one level, never two, so you can tap your way out without losing more than you meant to. It has to be clear ground, not a patch of floor inside the room: a tap on the floor is a tap on the room, and closing things out from under somebody who was only looking at their plan would be worse than not offering the shortcut. The proper buttons are always there too, for when you are zoomed in far enough that no ground is on screen.

Mouse and trackpad

Everything the touch version does with fingers, the Mac does with a pointer. The vocabulary is the same across the 3D view and the sketch canvas:

Keys

There is no Print. A floor plan has to come out at a stated scale to be worth anything, and the way to get that is Drawing or True scale (1:1) from the export menu, then print the PDF from Preview where you can see and control the scale. See Sharing and exporting.

The sidebar

Where the phone puts a card over the model, the Mac has room to leave things standing. The sidebar holds the reference panels — the plan's own counts and area, the rooms with their names, the measurement register, the snap setting, the furniture library and the Look controls — and each one collapses.

Cards that only exist while something is selected still appear over the model, as they do on touch, and go when the selection does. The rule is that the sidebar holds facts you want to keep looking at, and cards hold controls for the thing in your hand.

Scanning shows a black screen, or nothing happens

Camera access is off. Open iOS Settings → Overplan → Camera, or use the Open Settings button in the app's own alert. Scanning uses the camera and LiDAR to measure the room and records nothing.

It says this device can't scan

Room scanning needs a LiDAR sensor, which only some iPhone and iPad models have, and no setting anywhere turns one on. Sketch a floorplan and tracing a plan you already have work on every device and reach the same editor and the same kind of plan.

The room looks flat when it first opens

Shading is computed after the plan appears and settles a moment later. This is normal.

In AR I'm inside a wall

The model opened at real size, which is what it is for — and indoors that means the building is around you. Pinch to shrink it to a tabletop model, then drag it where you want it. See View in AR.

I can't find Trace

There is no Trace mode any more, and nothing was lost with it. Tracing is part of sketching: start Sketch a floorplan (or Sketch in the dock, on a plan you already have) and use Import a reference image… in Sketch Settings — see Tracing a reference image.

A measurement looks wrong

Check which feature it snapped to — the label says. Dimensions are taken between wall faces, not centre lines. If it keeps snapping to the wrong kind of thing, turn that kind off in the Wall / Edge / Corner switches, and zoom in.

Restore is disabled

The room was saved by an earlier version of Overplan, which didn't keep a separate original to go back to. Anything scanned, sketched or traced from now on keeps one.

Email us

Questions, bugs and requests are welcome: mike.mcfin@gmail.com. Please include your device or Mac model and its system version. Overplan is made by mcfinapps, independent software from Finland.